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LIGHT (LITE) BEER
This category, an American specialty, got its start in 1967 with the introduction of a product
called Gablinger's Diet Beer, made with a process invented by biochemist Dr. Joseph Owades that used an enzyme, Amyloglucosidase,
to convert the malt dextrins in the wort to sugars that were fermentable. Gablinger's had 107 Calories and came from the old
Rhinegold Brewery. It didn't sell very well. Perhaps the name had something to with that. Amyloglucosidase had become commercially
available in 1964.
Essentially this enzyme preparation breaks the glucoside bonds in starches--including malt dextrins-- forming glucose
and fructose, either of which can be fermented-- i.e. eaten-- by yeast. Amyloglucosidase is made by fermenting special
strains of Aspergillus Niger,
a black fungus that causes black mold on fruits and vegetables. The fungus is then processed to remove the enzyme. Amyloglucosidase
is now a ubiquitous product in the food and beverage industry, used for example, in the production of high fructose corn syrup
from corn.
Gablinger's Diet Beer may have flopped, but Dr. Owades was onto something. A lot of people who drink
mainstream, American style lagers, worry about their weight. They also dislike the full feeling that one can get from
drinking a couple of pints of a normal beer, laden with malt dextrins, which are carbohydrates. More than that, American
palates have been shaped increasingly by the hugely successful soft drink industry. A lot of people, especially younger people,
simply dislike the bitterness, the malty body and the hops smell of real beer.
There are three possible ways to make
a very light style of lager beer with as few calories as possible. The first is to simply water it down. But this produces
a watery tasting product that is simply unappealing.
The second is to brew from a very lean wort, with a low Original
Gravity, and accept low alcohol levels, say 2% alcohol. This has never been a popular approach in the United States, although
in Germany some brewers
make a Leicht style, that has some body, flavor, hoppiness and low alcohol content. Since the alcohol contributes even more
calories than the malt dextrins, this is a fairly low calory beer.
The third is to use Amyloglucosidase to convert
the non-fermentable carbohydrates that remain in beer and give it body and flavor. By converting these dextrins to sugars
the brewer can ferment them out to alcohol and carbon dioxide, achieving a respectable 4.2 ABV whileremoving about 50
calories of carbohydrate from a bottle or can of beer.
That, in a nutshell is Light Beer.
Dr Owades took his
brainchild to Chicago
Brewer MeisterBrau, who tried out Meister Brau Lite beer in Chicago. That didn't work either. The stuff was being marketed to women, it even
had a woman pictured on the can. While American women do drink beer, those who do are a distinct minority.
Enter Philip
Morris, the giant tobacco company. They bought Miller Brewing in 1969 for $130 Million from W.R. Grace and Co. To run Miller they put John Murphy,
a tall, hefty Irish American in charge. The story goes that in 1972, on a business trip in Germany, Murphy, was dining out with George Weissman the chairman
of Philip Morris. Weissman was trying to diet. The waiter introduced him to Diat Pils-- a german brew designed for diabetics,
where a low OG brew was fermented out as far as the yeast could take it, to render every scrap of sugar into alcohol. While
not actually low on either calories or carbs, due to the alcohol content, Diat pils tastes light. Murphy tried it too
and told Weissman There's room for something like this in America.
Miller bought Meister Brau that same year and
picked up Meister Brau Lite in the package, as it were. The Philip Morris people were marketeers, with skills honed in
the cut throat world of cigarettes. They identified a better way to market Lite, and set the brewers to tinker with the recipe
and then released Miller Lite on an unsuspecting world in 1975.
They positioned it as a beer for sports guys who didn't
want to get all filled up with heavy, old fashioned beers, but still wanted a real, ie, alcohol above 4% ABV, beer.
The
American Premium beer market--e.g. Budweiser, Miller High Life, Coors, Strohs, was already one for very .light tasting
lagers. Hop bitterness levels were generally in the 11-13 IBU range, in other words almost indetectable. Rice and corn were
used to supplement, or even supplant, more expensive barley malt to provide fermentable sugars.
Miller Lite simply
opened the way to a mass market for even less flavorful brews. And, it goes without saying, since less went into them, but
the price remained the same as that for Premium brews, these were considerably more profitable products.
In 1978 Coors
came out with Coors Light, their first response to Miller's onslaught. Then, in 1982, after long thought and considerable
internal debate, Anheuser
Busch finally responded by launching Bud Light. Thence began the Beer Wars, as AB slowly took share from Lite, until
by the early 90s, Bud Light was preeminent. There began a long decline in the fortunes of Miller Lite, until that brand
was eventually overtaken by Coors Light. About then, Philip Morris, to whom Miller represented a mere 4% of revenues, sold
the brewer to South African Breweries (SAB) who soon began an aggressive campaign to recapture market share. The Beer Wars
heated up again, and Miller's assault on Bud Light paid off to the extent that Lite recaptured the Number 3 position in US
beer brands, behind Bud Light and Budweiser in 2005.
Take a look at this little collection of stats.
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ABV Cals Carbs Bud Light
4.2 95
6.6 Budweiser 5.0
143 10.6 Michelob
5.0 155
13.3 Coors Light 4.2
102 5.0 Coors Original
5.0 148
11.3 Heineken 5.4
166 9.8 Miller High Life 5.5
156 11 Miller Lite
4.2 96
3.2 _________________________________________________________________
For all the marketing, plus all the clever,
expensive and malicious advertising that this highly profitable and very popular market segment is known for, the arguments
all come down to two or three carbs and one or two calories, per serving. In other words, from the perspective of those who
drink ales, bocks, stouts, or even full bodied European lagers, like Pilsner Urquell (4.3 ABV 160 cals) almost nothing.
Indeed, the beers in this category barely qualify as beer.
And, by classical standards they aren't, since real beer
is only made with water, hops, barley malt and yeast, leaving no room for Amyloglucosidase. However, that said, this
style is rapidly becoming the world's favorite, which says a few things about popular taste, advertising and the power of
marketing.
This article contributed by Chris Rowley, Writer.
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